Trip Report: Chincoteague VA - 6-2004 About This Page:

[imagineerwannabe]

Chincoteague trip report
6-25 - Day 1

Background:
Chincoteague, Virginia is a small (seven mile long island) at the northeast/Virginia portion of the Delmarva Peninsula. It is located near the Atlantic Ocean. The island is known for its annual Chincoteague Pony Swim and Auction, held every year, and for the book “Misty of Chincoteague” written many years ago by Marguerite Henry. The ponies are actually inhabitants of the adjacent island called Assateague, where they run free. The ponies are the property of the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, who monitor and maintain their health, and auction off some every year. The proceeds from the auction and carnival that accompanies it, helps maintain the fire equipment in the town of Chincoteague.
Assateague Island is a national seashore, and contains the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge (see picture 1). It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the East, and protects the Island of Chincoteague on the west (see Picture 2). Assateague Island is a rest stop for many birds including Herons, and Snow Geese, and Canadian Geese. Park Rangers protect the Piper Plover, a small bird species which is endangered. Chincoteague National Wildfire Refuge protects the Delmarva Fox Squirrel, and large gray squirrel that inhabits the island, and much of the Delmarva Peninsula. They are no visitor facilities on Assateague Island, and the few buildings support the National Park Service. Unfortunately, Assateague is an island of change as many nor'easters and hurricanes routinely eat away at the beach, and deposit the sands further south. Reworking the roads, trails and buildings are constant jobs for the National Park Service, as they try to make accommodations for visitors, while letting nature take its course.


Picture 1: Emblem of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge


Picture 2: Map of Assateague and Chincoteague

We enjoy visiting Chincoteague and Assateague Islands since it there are many bike trails on the islands, and we can enjoy the Atlantic Ocean and Beach. My family likes to see the wild animals and ponies on Assateague, and I feel they learn something about their environment each time the go (I know I do).

Left home about 9AM
Stopped @ Smyrna Delaware for bathroom break about 10AM
Stopped @ Wicomico Visitor's center outside of Salisbury Maryland @ 11:30am for picnic lunch

Arrived in Chincoteague VA @ 1:30PM
Since it had been 3years since we were last @ Chincoteague we drove around the island to see some of the changes made since our last trip. We drove across the bridge to Assateague Island and paid our $10 entry fee for the week. The beach is several miles away from the gate, and we drove while looking at the Sika and Whitetail Deer, various species of birds, and small number of Chincoteague ponies in the distance. When we arrived at the beach, we found much of the beach had changed, with the permanent buildings for the changing rooms and showers gone (storms had destroyed much of the beach). In their place, at various locations along the beach were portable changing rooms and showers. These buildings could be put up and torn down easily when storms approached from south, or at the end of the tourist season. The showers pumped unfiltered water from the Inlet side of the island using solar powered pumps.
We drove back through the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, and visited the new Herbert H. Bateman Educational and Administrative Center (see pictures 3 and 4). Several years ago we signed a petition to have the new facility funded, and were surprised to see the facility had been completed. We learned later it opened in October 2003. The new facility was several times larger than the former with a large auditorium showing movies about the islands. Some new innovations to the building include geothermal heating and air conditioning. We saw a new movie about the history of the Chincoteague and Assateague, and the beginnings of the Chincoteague volunteer fire department. The topic of the film may seem odd, but the fire department on the island is entwined with the history and Virginia portion of the wild Assateague Island ponies (sometimes referred to as Chincoteague Ponies). After walking through the various excellent exhibits (see pictures 6 and 7), we drove to the Tom's Cove Visitors Center, at the Assateague Island National Seashore. Here we learned the former buildings were destroyed by nor'easters, or severe storms from the south.


Picture 3: Herbert H. Bateman Educational and Administrative Center


Picture 4: Interior of the Educational Center


Picture 5: Exhibit of Endangered Species Protected by Refuge


Picture 6: Piper Plover Exhibit

We checked in at the Driftwood Lodge in Chincoteague shortly after 4pm. The Driftwood is the last accommodations before the bridge into Assateague, and it gives us a convenient spot close to the bike trails, and away from car traffic. The lodge has a small pool with a slide, has refrigerators in the room, and offers continental breakfast each morning. It is also right across from the McDonalds (which my kids like). I took the bikes of the SUV (Mazda Tribute) and put them in the hotel's bike rack.
We ate dinner at a very crowded establishment in Chincoteague that filled us. We were disappointed though since the food was not of the same quality as in previous trips. We read previously there was a campfire on the beach planned for the evening, and we went to the grocery store to get some marshmallows and skewers for the event. The campfire was presented by Assateague National Seashore Park Rangers, and featured a Ranger and an Intern who told Native American tales. There were about twenty people at the campfire, and we were told the event would end if there was an evidence of lightning striking nearby (isolated thunderstorms were forecasted, and there were tornadoes in North Carolina that afternoon). The Ranger and Summer Intern did a fine job presenting the stories, and we prepared to roast marshmallows following the presentation (see pictures 7 and 8). Several people had not brought there own marshmallows, so we offered our marshmallows and skewers to those without. It was a very friendly time, and we felt fuzzy by helping others to have a good time. This was a first for us, as we had never attended a beach campfire before.


Picture 7: Native American Stories at Campfire


Picture 8: Roasting Marshmallows

[imagineerwannabe]

Day 2
Mother Nature was not overly cooperative today, as it rained off and on, and was very cloudy most of the day. We had continental breakfast at the hotel, and then got the bikes and water bottles ready for our bike ride. The bridge over Chincoteague Inlet to the Wildlife Loop protects bike and pedestrian traffic from the cars, and I feel fairly safe having my kids bike over.
It is about two miles to the Wildlife Loop from the lodge. The Wildlife Loop is a 3-1/2 mile circular trail where you can see many different species of birds and animals. We didn't see any ponies at first, but found an isolated mare near the end of our ride. She was very pregnant and ready to deliver at any time (see Picture 9). Pregnant mares usually go off on their own since they are vulnerable, and they do this to protect the herd (which where on the very south side of the island). We also biked from the east part of the loop to the beach and back. This was very refreshing as the salt breeze hits you as you approach the beach. We were rained on briefly, and we told our daughters we would not be visiting the beach today unless the skies cleared.


Picture 9: Wild Pregnant Mare Pony

We rode back to the lodge, and I took my daughter to the pool for about an hour. We later ate lunch in the room, with food we brought in a cooler from home. We shopped in Chincoteague later that afternoon, and ate dinner at McDonalds.
Following dinner, we drove to the Wildlife Loop again and walked this time. It was getting very late and there was little traffic (cars can go around the loop after 3pm). By the time we completed the loop it was very dark and no one else was on the loop. Everyone thought they were seeing objects in front of us on the trail. I took this opportunity to mention the stories about the Jersey Devil (see picture 10), and how something like that could be down in Virginia. My family was NOT very happy with me. We made it back safely, but our nerves were a little frayed.
We later had soft serve ice cream cones at Mr. Whippy's (an ice cream establishment) and drove around Chincoteague (where there was much activity). We went back to the lodge, and called it a night.

Day 3
Already it was time to check out. We got everything ready, put the bags in the car and bikes back on the SUV, and checked out. Afterwards, we again headed for the Wildlife Loop and rode our bikes for several miles. After loading the bikes back on the SUV, we drove to the beach. Here, we got blankets, towels, and chairs out and enjoyed the rays for several hours.
While enjoying the surf with my daughter (see picture 11 and 12) a woman approached me and warned us about a buoy she pointed to. The buoy was several feet from us, and was attached to the well of the former shower and changing room building. We were told to stay away from the area so we would not get hurt. It was hard to believe this building was several feet up the beach just three years previous.


Picture 11: DD2 Enjoying the Surf


Picture 12: Assateague Beach

After walking on the beach, building sand castles, and getting slightly burned, we packed up for the four hour trip home. Our trip was short but pleasant.

Conclusion
Chincoteague is a very nice place for families to go and enjoy. It is not like many of the Atlantic Ocean resorts since the Island itself is a few miles from the beach, and the beach, on Assateague Island, is protected from development. It is not the type of place where you can stay in a hotel on the beach, and walk out into the sand. It is an excellent place for those families who enjoy biking and seeing wildlife.
Much had changed on Chincoteague and Assateague over the past three years. Although we liked seeing the new visitor’s center, we were disappointed to see the destruction from the storms. Due to the policy of the park service, not much is done to restore the beach, and it seems they work tirelessly to build new roads and trails washed away by nature. Unfortunately we only saw one pony up close. We timed the trip when we thought the ponies would not be as spooked. However, we could see the herds at the south end of the island away from our access. Of course all of these things were not in anyone's control. We will return again to our once favorite vacation spot another year although it is not in our immediate plans.

[Colexis Mom]

Sounds like a great mini vacation Ken Thanks for sharing it

[JoanW]

We visisted Assateaque in August, 2002. We saw a lot of ponies from the car, but it was late in the afternoon and we were running out of time to walk around. The visitor's center was pretty small, so I am thinking we may take a quick trip in August again and take a look see. We've never timed our beach vacation around the pony round up, but I am thinking my girls (and DH) would really like to see it. Great report! You must live north of Baltimore and came down either 13 or 113 through Delaware!

[imagineerwannabe]

Joan,

We live in Cecil County, so yes, we drive 95 to RT1 in Delaware (which now parallels RT13) and take 13 the rest of the way.

Three years ago we left the week before the pony swim, and actually saw part of the roundup. It was one of those Kodak moments when you find the batteries in the camera are dead (as they where).

You must live near the llamas of Davidsonville.

[GoofyMom]

Ken, it sounds like you and your family had a great little vacation! And this was very educational, I enjoyed reading about all the things you learned.

[WhatsaPooh]

[ QUOTE ]

Stopped @ Wicomico Visitor's center outside of Salisbury Maryland @ 11:30am for picnic lunch


[/ QUOTE ]

Hi,

How did you enjoy your brief stop in my hometown ? Especially your view of the ongoing (over a yr now)re-construction of the bridge coming into Salisbury. I'm actually a Delaware native by birth, transplant to Maryland by marriage (12 yrs and going strong) but Delmarva(ian)through and through!

Have you visited the MD side of Assateague? I've always found more "ponies" as compared to the VA side. You won't find any hotels, but they do have campsites available. I've never camped there, but my sister and her family go at least once year. Her husband likes surf-fishing, and she gets to enjoy the beach.

[JoanW]

The llamas are on the south end of Davidsonville at Homestead Gardens. I'm on the northeast side, with a horse farm across the street and another farm next door with cows and horses. And Route 50 runs right through it all, but you can't see too many farms from the highway!

[luvnwdwgal]

Thanks for the trip report Ken!

[imagineerwannabe]

[ QUOTE ]

How did you enjoy your brief stop in my hometown ? Especially your view of the ongoing (over a yr now)re-construction of the bridge coming into Salisbury.

Have you visited the MD side of Assateague? I've always found more "ponies" as compared to the VA side. You won't find any hotels, but they do have campsites available. I've never camped there, but my sister and her family go at least once year. Her husband likes surf-fishing, and she gets to enjoy the beach.

[/ QUOTE ]

Greetings fellow Delmarvian
We like the Wicomico Vistors Center, and always stop there on the way to Chincoteague. The bridge constructions seems to cause some backups, even at the 12ish time we left.

We went to the Maryland side one year for the day, but found the flies there to be rather aggressive (even with tons of bug spray). We saw some of the ponies right on the beach (another Kodak moment when I went back to the car and there were gone when I returned).