In the Footsteps of the Incas: From Mountains to Jungle to Ancient Ruins - Page 13 - PassPorter - A Community of Walt Disney World, Disneyland, Disney Cruise Line, and General Travel Forums
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How awesome that you got to meet Bob & Barb! Aren't PassPorters awesome?!?
You're right, the next installment sounds a bit ominous! I love the way you said "3 ff@#$%ing am" That's how I feel about that time of day when I have to be awake that early. I am hoping for some awesome photos of the sunrise, and that you didn't have to get up so early for nothing! :fingers crossed:
I woke up a little before 3 am and headed into the shower. After I had gotten out and had started my daily grooming I hear a knocking at the door. Craig answers and it is Eddison. I can’t make out what they are saying. Shortly after Craig closes the door I can hear raised, angry female voices outside of our room. It turns out that it is pouring down rain. Eddison had come by to inform us that they were canceling the early morning hike to Machu Picchu. Instead, we would be taking the traditional route. We would have breakfast at the hotel followed by catching a bus to get to Machu Picchu. In fact, we could clearly hear the rain splattering on our window pane in our hotel room. The downpour sounded quite heavy. Craig and I went back to bed to catch a little bit more sleep.
At five in the morning we had breakfast with some very angry women. Ugh! A number of our group were extremely upset at the cancellation of the early morning hike. They thought we could slog through the rain in rain ponchos. Craig disagreed. He only voiced his disagreement to me. His point was that we had paid for this breakfast that we were eating and the bus ride up to Machu Picchu as part of the cost of the Adventure Trek. I thought it was up to the guides to determine what was doable. I didn’t have a problem with going the traditional route either. However, all through breakfast we heard a harangue by a subset of our group.
Once again it was mainly a liquid breakfast. I didn’t have much at breakfast besides mate de coca and orange juice. I remember Craig having eggs. There were breads with marmalade and jellies.
We put all of our red Llama Path duffel bags and walking sticks all into one room of the hotel for storage. Oddly enough the same group of girls who were complaining also took the longest to get ready to leave. Craig and I were ready long before we were scheduled to depart. You tell me to be ready at a given time and I’ll be ready especially, when a whole group is depending on me being timely.
We leave the hotel and it is pouring rain. The dark of night still blankets the town. Craig and I wonder how safe it would have been tramping through unpaved paths in the rainy, dark night. We think that Marco and Eddison make a good call for the safety of the group. We reach the bus station. Eddison had distributed our bus tickets and admission tickets to Machu Picchu to us. We wait in line in our colorful rain ponchos. Buses have already started to depart for Machu Picchu.
Leaving the comfy, warm Plaza Andina Machu Picchu Hotel at an ungodly hour of the morning. I'm a morning person, but even I feel that this is difficult to be up and about before the sun has risen.
The line waiting for entry into Machu Picchu. We are all getting quite wet as the rain continues. Thankfully, it was not as heavy as it had been earlier in the morning.
While waiting in line Marco is attacked by the Alpha Tourist. That’s what Craig calls him. Alpha Tourist is a member of our group who is furious over the decision not to go on the early morning hike. He is yelling and berating Marco. Adding fuel to the fire is his wife who adds her screaming. The two of them were staying at another hotel near the restaurant where we had dinner. Into the fray are their friends who were the girls who were upset at breakfast. They just would not stop complaining and yelling. In addition to being upset about not hiking, they were upset that we weren’t even on the first bus out of Aguas Calientes. Probably a little over 100 people have already departed for Machu Picchu. It isn’t even six am yet! They just go on and on with complaining and yelling. Ugly Americans.
Eventually, it is time to board our bus. I am the last person who gets a seat on the bus so I am all the way at the back. The bus travels up the mountains of Peru climbing higher and higher. Within 20 minutes or so we are dropped off at Machu Picchu. The bus drops us off right in front of the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge is the only hotel located adjacent to the ancient citadel of Machu Picchu and the best hotel by which to explore the beautiful surrounding area. Offering luxury accommodation and Peruvian cuisine with delightful little touches, Machu Picchu Sanctuary lodge is the perfect place to relax and unwind in the shadow of the Lost City. It is simply the most expensive accommodations in the Cusco region and probably in all Peru. I believe rooms start at $500 per night. Our room at the comfy Plaza Andina Machu Picchu probably cost about $65 per night. I don’t know exactly how much it cost because it was included as part of the cost of the Adventure Trek. For those of you who viewed “Samantha Brown’s Passport to Latin America”, the Sanctuary Lodge is the hotel in which she stayed. I want her job!
After getting off the bus, Craig and I are in line to gain admittance into the site for Machu Picchu. Our fellow trekkers are pretty far ahead of us in line. No effort was made to keep the entire group together. Craig and I had decided that we would climb the additional peak of Huayna Picchu. Huayna Picchu is the towering granite peak that overlooks Machu Picchu from the north. As you may recall at our orientation meeting we were not sure whether or not we would be capable of doing this additional climb. But after all that we had been through together we were confident that we could do it. Now the problem came with what time do we do this. Marco had discussed at dinner the previous evening that there were two times when they allowed entrance. Pros and cons of each time were bandied about. Now as we got to the entry to Machu Picchu we had to declare which time. Neither Craig nor I knew which time the group had decided upon and there was no one from our group anywhere near. The staff at Machu Picchu was rather urgent in asking us for a time. They were so insistent that Craig and I started to panic. It was rather stressful. We were really at a loss. Finally, I spied Marco in the distance and called him over to help us out. It turns out we were going for the later entrance to Huayna Picchu. When we finally rejoined our group, I got verbally attacked by Alpha Tourist and several other members of our group complaining about having to wait for Craig and myself. They were rather hostile and upset.
Hope the carbs at dinner helped with the next day's hike. That really looked like a lot to walk off.
One saving grace about my genetics is that I have a metabolism that burns calories like nobody's business so I really didn't have to worry about what I ate on this trip. Also, with the g-i issue I was just hoping I wasn't missing out nutritionally.
Princess Sharon -
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A hotel room! It seems like brilliant planning to stay in a hotel in the middle of your hike.
Actually, this is the end of the hike, so the bed and shower were VERY welcome.
Mickey Mama -
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Great updates! I hope you were able to see the sunrise, because that would be the only good thing about waking up at 3am!
As you now have read, the rain spoiled seeing the sun rise.
Chezp -
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A hotel room - aaah now that sounds like bliss after the last few days.
You have no idea how thrilled I was to have a proper toilet. Sounds funny now but I would have gone into indentured servitude at the time for that toilet.
pamcarey -
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Sounds like there may be some problems in the next update, though...
Since I really can’t say everything that comes to mind with my students, I often have to hold my tongue. As a result, when not at work I end up not having a filter at all. So when Alpha Tourist and others start getting on Craig’s and my case I let loose. I let them know that I, unlike them, was the very last person to get off the bus because I was the last one on the bus. No one bothered to make sure that Craig and I were a part of the group. No one waited for us so that we were all together. I was doing the courteous thing to do and not cutting in line. Why don’t you all exercise some patience and consideration! Furthermore, it never was clearly expressed which time we would be climbing Huayna Picchu. I didn’t do a darned thing wrong so you better back off. I think I shocked quite a few people because the whole trip I had an enthusiastic and sunny disposition. Suddenly, my fury was unleashed and it was not pretty. Everyone immediately backed down. Probably because they were forced to realize that I was right (as always) and they were wrong.
Now we all are just waiting to gain entry into the site in a line. Obviously its my fault that Alpha Tourist can’t do what he wants (read: dripping sarcasm). Alpha Tourist and his wife continue to harangue poor Marco and Eddison. They continue to argue with them. What are they supposed to do now? I’m trying to keep calm. I announce to Craig that we are not going to let all of this ruin our vacation and we will persevere and enjoy our time at Machu Picchu. Seth and Toya support my statement and make similar remarks. Craig is having a very difficult time of it. Alpha Tourist is really upsetting him. In fact, our whole group has a rather sullen mood as we wait.
Eventually, the line moves and we make our way into the lost city called Machu Picchu. One of the meanings of Machu Picchu is Ancient Peak. It was what the local people called the mountain above the saddle ridge where the ruins were located. Huayna Picchu means Young Peak. There does seem to be evidence that this area was occupied by people before Inca civilization going back 2,000 years. But there was no city of any consequence.
It was the Incas that made Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is a city built for Inca Pachacutec. It is late imperial Inca. The whole settlement was built, occupied, and abandoned in the space of less than 100 years. It was a permanent settlement for about 1,000 people. As is true of structures like Sacsayhuamán, Machu Picchu fulfilled a variety of functions. It was a great agricultural center with terraced farming of coca leaves. It had strategic and defensive purposes and could be seen as a citadel. It also had great religious significance. In fact, the spiritual and ceremonial significance is its primary purpose. The Spanish conquerors were ignorant of the city probably because by the time of their conquest it had already been abandoned. It was abandoned and ignored until Hiram Bingham was shown the site by locals in July 1911.
Marco guides us through the site explaining various parts of the complex. It is truly breath taking and incredible to witness. The incredible experience was marred by several things. The rain was not letting up. In fact, it started to come down harder as Marco lead the way around the most spiritual parts of the city. Also, I had a hard time shaking off the ill feeling generated by Alpha Tourist. Everything was covered in mist. You could not see much of Machu Picchu besides what was directly in front of you due to the mist. Marco was confident that the weather would change and eventually the mist would lift.
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What a shame that all of this had to happen just as you get to Machu Picchu. I am so sorry that you guys had to go through that and I don't blame you snapping like that - I think I would've done much earlier than you did. I can't wait for the next installment!
WOW!! the trip sounds magnificent!! I hope to travel the world one day and see all the ancients ruins, and cultures of other countries. I was watching the olympics and there countries being presented that i have never heard of before and never saw that country on any world map. I guess lower education schools(high school, middle, and elementary) just show u the basic world and countries that we can easily recognized that i never bothered looking any closer. Now that i know that these countries exist i have to travel and see them all
All I can say is WOW!! Your pictures and descriptions are so wonderful that I feel like I right there with you guys. And I have to add that "you 2 are the MEN" for enduring that hike!! Not feeling well and climbing all day in the heat...WOW!!
Alpha Tourist deserved a swift kick in the arse!! No one has the right to ruin a once in a lifetime trip for everyone!!
Sorry all that had to happen, Douglas! Honestly, when I went on a guided tour, my biggest fear was to have an Alpha Tourist in the group with me. I know how much of a buzzkill it can be. Good for you for speaking your mind! And wow, your photos are awesome! Reading your TR has added a new entry on my "places I'd like to visit" list! That list seems to get longer every day.
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Mickey's so happy to see me back, he can barely contain himself!
Sorry all that had to happen, Douglas! Honestly, when I went on a guided tour, my biggest fear was to have an Alpha Tourist in the group with me. I know how much of a buzzkill it can be. Good for you for speaking your mind! And wow, your photos are awesome! Reading your TR has added a new entry on my "places I'd like to visit" list! That list seems to get longer every day.
Sharon has expressed my thoughts as well. On the Greece trip we really didn't have an Alpha Tourist, just the usual occasional crankiness. We did have one person that was habitually the last person to get back to the bus, though.
I, too, feel like I am right there with you because your narrative is so well written!
I recently got the National Geographic tour catalog and in it is a "Tour of a Lifetime" that I want to take when I win the lottery. You travel to about a dozen World Heritage Sites aboard a private Boeing 757 and then walk/hike/bus/train/cable car/boat/etc from there. I think the tour is almost $70K per person. But upon reflection, maybe it would be better to do it in separate trips and actually experience each place. Hmm.
What a shame that all of this had to happen just as you get to Machu Picchu
Those were my feelings at the time as well.
Rhinohunter
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Great update.
Thank you!
Samantha R
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Now that i know that these countries exist i have to travel and see them all
Too bad my money situation can't support my desire to travel. I have a super long list of places I want to visit as must you.
Colexi's Mom
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I hope the mist lifts!!
You'll find out in this next installment
Sparks74
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All I can say is WOW!! Your pictures and descriptions are so wonderful that I feel like I right there with you guys. And I have to add that "you 2 are the MEN" for enduring that hike!! Not feeling well and climbing all day in the heat...WOW!!
Thank you! You are very sweet.
Princess Sharon
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Honestly, when I went on a guided tour, my biggest fear was to have an Alpha Tourist in the group with me. I know how much of a buzzkill it can be.
As you know, I had good luck with groups in the past. Plus, overall the group was good. I was able to overcome the less than wonderful outburst.
LlaffinPlace -
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I, too, feel like I am right there with you because your narrative is so well written!
Thanks for the compliment. That means a lot to me.
Intipunku, the Sun Gate - this is the entryway that hikers on the traditional Inca Trail enter Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu - The Lost City of the Incas
Marco led us around the site informing us about Inca spirituality. One of the stops we made was to visit the Temple of the Sun. This is a curved and tapering tower which illustrates the wonderful fine stonework that the Incas could produce without any mortar. The stonework is so crazy when you think of having a round building made up of stones that fit perfectly together. It is believed to have been used for astronomical purposes. Inside are an altar and a drilled trapezoidal window that looks onto the site. It also contains sacred niches for holding idols or offerings. The rock in the center of the tower has a straight edge cut into it. This is precisely aligned through the window to the rising point of the sun on the morning of the June solstice. The pegs on the outside of the window may have been used to support a show-casting device.
Temple of the Sun
The Temple of the Three Windows commands a great view of the plaza below through the huge trapezoidal windows that give the building its name. Its east wall is built on a single huge rock; the trapezoidal windows are partly cut into it.
Temple of the Three Windows
The Intihuatana is the major shrine here. The Inca astronomers were able to predict the solstices using the angles of a curved rock pillar. Thus, they were able to claim control over the return of the lengthening summer days. Intihuatana is Quechua for “hitching post of the sun".
We also visited the Temple of the Condor which contained a carving of the head of a condor, with the natural rocks behind it resembling the bird’s outstretched wings. Behind the condor is a well-like hole and, at the bottom of this, we went through a door to a tiny underground cell that can only be entered by scrunching down and bending your body double.
After about 1-1/2 hours, Marco let us loose to explore on our own. He and Eddison said their good-byes and Seth made a nice short speech thanking them for all of their hard work and presented them with their tips.
Wow! Moment - As we wandered, Craig and I climbed up to the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock. This provided us a great place for an overall view of the ruins. It backs onto a gently sloping area known as the cemetery because Bingham discovered numerous bones and mummies at this spot. We stayed up here for quite a while. Gradually, the mist finally started to rise and we could actually see the lost city as a whole. Of course, the mist kept on wafting over obscuring our vision because I wanted to take pictures and lord forbid the sun should actually come out at this time. I must admit that even more upsetting than Alpha tourist was the fact that mist obscured our vision of things for hours. I was a little distraught over the idea that I might not get my quintessential Machu Picchu photograph. Thankfully, it cleared up a little here and there. I just had to exercise patience and maintain a state of serenity. Actually, this would be a wonderful place to center yourself and gain perspective if it weren’t for all the people trampling through.
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That's how I feel about that time of day when I have to be awake that early. I am hoping for some awesome photos of the sunrise, and that you didn't have to get up so early for nothing! :fingers crossed:
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Pixie Dust
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I can't wait for the next installment! 
Good for you for speaking your mind! And wow, your photos are awesome! Reading your TR has added a new entry on my "places I'd like to visit" list! 
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