In the Footsteps of the Incas: From Mountains to Jungle to Ancient Ruins About This Page:

[pamcarey]

What an interesting update! The boat made of reeds was too cool!

[DouglasE]

When we returned to the hotel, Craig admired the alpaca goods that I had purchased. He wanted to get some himself. Prior to eating dinner we ventured off to the same market square where I made my purchases. While there he purchased some gloves. I had decided that I wanted to get that hat that I didn’t get earlier in the day. I tried to find the same stall. The young woman that was working earlier in the day had gone home. I think we shopped at the same stall. I really like the design of my hat and its colors. It totally goes with the scarf and sweater I purchased earlier. It’s a little different than the traditional Peruvian hat in that it does not have those ear flaps coming down, but it still ends in a tassle at the top. Shopping really worked up our appetite and it was time to have dinner.


Sporting my new alpaca hat in front of the stall from which I purchased it.






Before I get into what happened next, a little cultural lesson is needed. The Spanish when they conquered Peru encountered a culture that today we call the Incas. Here is today’s quiz. How many Incas were there from inception to the day the Spaniards arrived? A. 1000 B. 10,000 C 100,000 D 845,000 E none of the above. The answer, my friends is E. There were only 13 Incas. Inca is a name for the king or emperor. Using the word Inca to represent the culture is a misnomer. A possible better alternative would be the Quechua (Ketch-u-ah); naming the culture after the language that they spoke.

After returning to our room at “Inka’s Rest” I had consulted my trusty Lonely Planet Peru guidebook for dining options. Craig was still feeling under the weather and I had the dull minor headache. While the restaurant that Gilda had recommended for dinner sounded right up my alley, I thought we should try a different option that was a nice, quiet dinner. Luckily, Craig is a similar traveler as I am. We both want to experience local, authentic cuisine. Have you ever seen the movie or read the book, “The Accidental Tourist”? We are the opposite of the main character. Instead of trying to replicate our experiences from home we try to have experiences that are as different from our own everyday experiences. Lonely Planet had described “Keros” as follows, “though it may look deserted, low key Keros has a full bar and serves variations on typical local dishes…it’s motto is ‘Eat like an Inca, pay like a peasant’”. The restaurant’s name comes from the word for the drinking vessel used by the Incas. It was especially used to drink an alcoholic beverage called, chincha. Chincha is created by chewing corn and then spitting it out into a vat and allowing the corn and saliva to ferment. It’s basically a corn beer. The keros were these huge goblets in the shape of a cylinder that flared out in which the Incas drank chincha.

Wow Moment! I had one of the best meals in my entire life at this restaurant. For those Passporters who have eaten with me, they know that when I enjoy my food I make noises akin to moans and groans typically heard when ‘making whoopee’. There definitely was no shortage of sounds coming from me on this evening. I kept on exclaiming how good the food was. While I was all about experiencing local culture, soroche plays a significant role in our choices. If I had my druthers I would have had chincha as my beverage tonight. However, alcohol is counterproductive in recovery from altitude sickness. Therefore, I had mate de coca, as did Craig. My meal was alpaca loin stuffed with all sorts of goodness (I can’t remember what it was stuffed with) and swimming in an aji and wine sauce. It was accompanied with green beans and rice. The bread they served was a local version similar to a flatbread and quite yummy. As Passporters we always enjoy attention to detail. I thought it was a nice touch that the bread was served in a basked in the shape of the boats that you see on Lago Titicaca. Very cute! Even though I was very hungry by the time the food arrived, I still stand by the statement that this was utterly delicious. I wish I could tell you what Craig had, but I can’t recall. I was only able to focus on my own meals. I can tell you that I do remember that it was very yummy. I must have been making such a fuss that there was a table of two young women across the room who enquired from their server what I was having and they ended up ordering the same meal. The restaurant was not deserted tonight. It actually had a number of folks dining there. It was amusing to see most had a copy of their Lonely Planet guidebook handy. To give credit where credit is due when it comes to Peru Lonely Planet is the guidebook. I had read many guidebooks prior to my departure, but when it comes to logistics and opinions of South America destinations Lonely Planet wins hands down. I have a sugar tooth, but I was too full to have any dessert. We left well satisfied. The cost of our main dishes was roughly $5 each. We truly did eat like a king and pay like a peasant!


Craig's meal






Just looking at this picture makes me hungry for my dinner





Isn't that bread server, cute?






Enjoying our night out





Craig outside Keros





Craig had wanted to see the pedestrian thoroughfare that I had explored earlier in the day so I showed him what he had missed. It was especially pretty at night. As we wandered back to the hotel we got a little sidetracked and went a bit out of our way. But we made it back nice and safely. At the hotel we had the whole 3rd floor to ourselves. So the commons area outside of our room functioned as our own private living room. We sat down and discussed our day and enjoyed more mate de coca that the hotel provided. Before you knew it, it was time to sleep. We have a full day ahead tomorrow.





NEXT: A unique way to get to a bus station and 9 hours with the two Jose’s

[Colexis Mom]

What a great dinner Douglas! Glad you enjoyed it! More please!

[lauriep]

What a great meal (at an amazing price!). I love the bread basket and also the tablecloth. I so agree with your travel philosophy of immersion in the local culture as much as possible. I hope the two of you get acclimated to the altitude and don't spend the whole trip slightly under par. Kudos to you for not letting the headache keep you down!

[pamcarey]

Your meal does look delish, and what a great price! I agree, the bread basket is very cute! And Craig's gloves also looked really nice! I have a pair of alpaca gloves, but unfortunately they make me itch.

[chezp]

Wow, your dinner does look good. I love your new hat.

[PrincessSharon]

That tour of Lake Titicaca looked great. Those little islands are fascinating. Your dinner looked delish! Sounds like a great first day!

[goofysdtr]

You're making me hungry! Sounded fabulous!

[DouglasE]

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Beep! Beep! Beep! The travel alarm clock is definitely working. It’s an early wake up for us. Into the shower I go. Brrrrrr! There is no hot water today due to the renovations being done on the Bed & Breakfast. I have one of the quickest showers I have ever taken. Ordinarily the hotel would have hot water, but today is just one of those days. I enjoy this place so much and I’m so jazzed to be in Peru I really don’t mind it all that much. Craig and I quickly get ourselves ready and packed. Today we leave Lago Titicaca and Puno.

Downstairs we take advantage of the continental breakfast provided. I love fruit and there is plenty to eat. My breakfast consists of a roll with marmalade, a banana, and a couple of apples. No breakfast in Puno would be complete without the mate de coca! All Craig and I drink is mate de coca. At breakfast we see some of the other guests at Inka’s Rest. This is definitely a place for the backpacker set. All of the others seem to be traveling light just like we are.


Breakfast at Inka's Rest Bed & Breakfast






Craig is feeling much better today. Most of the soroche has dissipated. My throbbing headache isn’t that prominent.

While we were arranging our Adventure Trek with Llama Path we informed Renzo Serrano that we would be arriving in Cusco via a bus. When he discovered our plans he offered to arrange our bus travel. Originally, we were going to go via Inka Express. However, Renzo got us a less expensive rate with First Class Bus. Both companies provide basically the same service and itinerary. I had read reviews on Trip Advisor. There was one very scary review for First Class, but other than that it was all very positive. Craig and I decided to roll the dice and take a gamble since money was such an issue for us and had Renzo book our trip with First Class Bus.

First Class Bus offers a trip from Puno to Cusco on a panoramic bus. Along the way, the bus makes stops at a number of sites. Included in the ride is a bilingual guide. The trip is 9 hours. Midway through we stop for a buffet lunch that is included in the fare. This all cost $35/person. Most of the stops that the bus makes require an admission. That was an additional 22 nuevo soles or roughly a little more than $7/person.

After breakfast we return our room key and head out the door. I consult my map of Puno and start our walk to the bus station. We start our walk and I realize that time is running short and I wanted to be sure we didn’t get lost. As I have mentioned before, peditaxis are everywhere here. I suggest to Craig that we take one and he agrees. I negotiate a fare for a couple of nuevo soles. Our driver was very friendly with lots of smiles. He worked very hard pedaling his little heart out carrying Craig, myself, and our bags. At least he didn’t have all that far to go to get to the train station. I loved being able to experience something totally different. It is a slow ride. If you want to travel somewhere and get off your feet but still be able to see your surroundings at leisure I definitely would recommend this type of transportation.

My view from the peditaxi



When we arrived at the First Class Bus terminal there was a bit of confusion because our reservation was not in either my name or Craig’s name. It was under Llama Path. We had some time before our bus was scheduled to depart. I look around and check things out. Once I was acclimated I turned to make a comment and found Craig missing. I left the terminal to see if I could find him. He was no where to be found. It’s a tiny place and he is not outside or inside. What happened to him!?! I secure our seats on the bus. Still no sign of Craig. Just before the bus starts to start its engine, Craig appears. He took the opportunity to use the bathroom. However, he neglected to tell me this little fact as I was taking in my surroundings. Grrrr

As the bus departs our guide introduces himself and the driver. They are the two José’s. José, the guide, uses a microphone. It is crystal clear and we have no problem understanding him even though he has a definite accent. Our bus is taking a new road as it leaves Puno. It is a new highway that is in the process of being created. It will take vehicles as far as Brasil. From Puno to Pucara there is a lot of work being done on the road. José explains that many of the buildings that we see have no roof because the family is growing. As the family grows, the house grows. In this part of Peru you see a lot of tin roofs.



Craig in front of our panoramic tour bus






We reach Juliaca. José tells us that its nickname is “Little Taiwan”. Apparently, tons of fake products can be purchased here. Juliaca is a big trade city and besides the legitimate business being done there is a lot of contraband. When Craig and I had taken the collectivo through Juliaca it was very grimy and gritty. On this bus we get to see more of Juliaca and while it is still very sandy and dirty we see a more appealing part. We definitely got to see a vibrant commercial side to the town. Additionally, we saw incredibly crazy traffic with collectivos, touristico buses (like ours but going to all sorts of destinations), pedicabs, and motorized tricycles.

I was amazed at how all of these large vehicles can share the dirt road on which we traveled. We have a slow, slow pace on a dirt road with ruts. It’s like an amusement park ride as we rock left to right. We notice little memorials on the side of the road on occasion. Apparently, deaths on the road are not uncommon judging from the amount of these memorials. Eventually we hit a newly paved road.

My “Toto, we are not in Kansas” moment becomes apparent when stray dogs cross the highway. Besides the mangy dogs we see sheep and cows on either side of the highway. We pass a community with mud brick houses and thatched roofs. With all of the livestock that we see I get the impression that this new highway cuts through old grazing grounds. We pass an accident with a Peruvian tourist bus. Emergency workers had already arrived.

As we pass the Pucara River José points out the Patagonian flamingos that are visiting. Our guide is really great at commenting on things that we see on either side of the bus that are worth noting. I just thought he would be making comments on our stops; but he comments frequently throughout our trip. He’s very good at providing cultural and historical information in amounts that we can digest. The first half of our trip we are traveling through the Altiplano region of Peru or the high plains. Livestock and textiles are the way the people of the altiplano earn their living.

This bus ride proves to be an excellent way to acclimatize to the higher elevation. We hardly have any exertion. Our fellow bus tour travelers are 68% English speakers, 30% Spanish, and 2% other like German and Swedish. Thank goodness our bus has air conditioning because it makes our trip very comfortable.

Today is Sunday. Sunday is bartering day for the locals. They travel to other towns and villages to get their needs. As we motor along we often see folks on foot making their way to another town market.

Our first stop is Pukara Museum. This museum illustrates Pre-Inca cultures. Prominently displayed is a monolith with the Andean cross. The Andean cross symbolizes the underworld, the living plane, and the upperworld. This monolith also is decorated with elements like lightning. It is topped with a catfish head. At Pukara we receive an overview of Peruvian history with emphasis on Altiplano Pukara civilization. After the monolith room we explore a room that focuses on ceramics. Pukara means read fortress. Much of the ceramics were found in red soil. I wish I could share pictures of this place with you but no pictures were allowed in the exhibition rooms. After the ceramics room we looked at a room with a variety of bone fishing tools, textile tools, stone tools. The Pukara had three industries and we see artifacts from each: fishing, textiles, and livestock. Our last room that we explore is the head sacrificing monoliths. The Pukara served heads of sacrificial persons as a tribute for continued sustenance. This is a new museum and has only been around for 8 years. Interestingly enough it was founded by a researcher from the US.


Monoliths at the Museo Litico Pukara






Sitting in the courtyard of the Museo Litico Pukara






One of the bus passengers plays with a local child






Our bus reached 4,000 meters above sea level and we spy a mountain topped with a glacier. Glaciers have been disappearing quickly due to climate changes. I’m sure you’ve heard of global warming. Just another sign that it isn’t a joke.

I start to get annoyed at this point because people are sleeping on the bus with the curtains pulled across the windows. It makes it difficult to see. Why bother with a panoramic tour bus if you are just going to go to sleep? Why not take a traditional bus ride? There certainly are an abundance of those buses that can take you from Puno to Cusco. I turned around and discovered that at least half of the bus was sleeping.

There is the most incredible mountainous scenery here and these people are missing out. Why travel thousands of miles to sleep on a bus?

José points out terraced farming on the mountainside. Peru has literally 3,000 types of potatoes.

Our second stop is Abra La Raya. The altitude is 4,335. I am definitely woozy form the elevation. This stop is just a scenic stop to take in the mountains and the plains. As I walk around I can feel my heart is working hard to pump my blood.


Me and my guide Jose in front of Les Desea Centro Artesanal at Abra La Raya






A glacier at Abra La Raya





Our road to Cusco in the Altiplano region of Peru






NEXT: Lunch with the camelids, Silver Artisan Workshop, and an ancient Incan city.

[chezp]

Oh wow, amazing views - I am so in love with the place just through your photos. Another wonderful installment.

[Colexis Mom]

Great pictures Douglas! More please!

[PrincessSharon]

Great update, Douglas. I was afraid for a second that you'd lost Craig! That looks like a wonderful bus tour! I can't believe people would sleep through it.

[DouglasE]

Since you seem to be enjoying the pictures, I will post a few more. I took over 700 pictures on this trip so obviously, I will not be posting them all. You get a sampling of my favorites. I have a little bit of time today so enjoy these snippets.

These were all taken at Abra La Raya

[pamcarey]

Great update and pictures!

[chezp]

Another great update.