In the Footsteps of the Incas: From Mountains to Jungle to Ancient Ruins About This Page:

[PrincessSharon]

That scenery is breathtaking! I'm usually not one for long hikes, but with amazing scenery like that, I could reconsider. Wow, I hope Craig is ok. And from the sounds of your teaser, I'm worried about you, too, now. Hurry back!

[Colexis Mom]

What great pictures Douglas! Pixies for Craig!

[ccmom]

Don't you dare leave us hanging too long! I'm really enjoying this tr and more than happy to live vicariously through you.

[chezp]

You can't stop there - I hope it's nothing too serious that comes next....

[DouglasE]

It turns out that Craig is ok and had fainted. We believe that he had risen too quickly from being stooped over the bowl and an unbalanced sugar level from his altered diet. He ended up being just fine especially after he had lunch. Let me tell you I was so scared and concerned. I had images of him on a horse being led to a medivac ‘copter.

Wow Moment! The food was incredible. There was such an abundance of food and it all was utterly delicious. Much of what we ate was Peruvian in nature. The girls Gemma and Jade were vegetarian and Toya, another trekker, could not have eggs. All of our dietary needs were accommodated quite well. Frequently, the non-vegetarians wanted what the vegetarians were given to eat. They made so much food that it was not uncommon for us to be able to sample what they had in addition to what we were given. Anything that we left over, the Red Army got to devour afterwards.



Enjoying our lunch








The terrain that we hiked following lunch was significantly more challenging than what we experienced before. As always, the views were incredible.



Taking a moment to rest after lunch




**APOLOGY TO THE READER: At this point I need to describe some issues that aren’t for the delicate. However, they are necessary to discuss since they have a huge impact on my experience and my behavior for the rest of the trip. If you are eating while reading this, you may wish to continue after you have finished eating.***

As I hiked along I started to experience some cramping. My stomach seemed to have an intense painful wrenching feeling. I would take big breaths and breathe heavily as I would get cramps. I felt like I needed to use the toilet. However, I seemed to be able to hold things in. The cramping would continue for several miles and all I could do is focus on our eventual arrival in camp.

All through my hike of the day, I would walk next to various people in my group. Generally, I tried to stay at the front so I could easily see Marco leading the way. For the last hour and a half, I was hiking with Craig. He was quite tired and struggling a bit. I, while not tired or struggling, was dealing with my gastro-intestinal difficulties. It was nice to be free to discuss what I was dealing with internally. At this point, we are at the back of the pack of the group.






Eventually, after crossing some streams we reach Soraypampa, our first camp. When we get there the tents have been all erected, hot water, soap and a towel are outside our tent. The main tent is erected and everyone is invited to stop in and have a snack. My first order of business is to sort out our stuff. Our tent already has our mattresses and heavy woolen blanket inside. I go to find our sleeping bags and duffel bags. The tents and sleeping bags are brand new! Our sleeping bag still had the tags attached. Once we have everything in the tent, Craig collapses inside his sleeping bag. He is out for the count. I need to run to the toilet facilities. The toilet while being a permanent affair is utterly disgusting. It is a round pedestal that sits very low on the ground. There is no way to flush. There is no lid. It is old, old, stone. The place reeks. I mean the smell is enough to make you gag. Sad to say, I am about to make things even worse. You can not sit on this thing. Basically, you need to straddle over the hole. My legs got a serious workout out having to bend and hold for quite some time. My gastro-intestinal system has turned everything into pure liquid form. Ugh! This is one of the most disgusting moments that I can recall. I am in there for quite some time. Thank goodness for the soap and water outside my tent.

Home Sweet Home! This is our tent and I do believe that Craig is lying down inside.




Inside the main tent, I see a few people and discover that they will be serving a snack. I think it is hot cocoa and popcorn. I go back to my tent to let Craig know about the snack. He is barely awake and tells me that I should just wake him for dinner. He will pass on the snack. I go back to the main tent because I still feel like socializing and enjoying some popcorn. I stay there for about 20 minutes.

Soraypampa is cold! This will prove to be the coldest camp of our hike. We are 4000m/12750ft above sea level. I am shivering and decide to go back to my tent. In my tent I crawl into my sleeping bag and lay the woolen blanket over both Craig and myself. It is so nice and warm! Oh! This feels so good to lie down in the comfort of the sleeping bag. I just want to drift off to sleep. But I know dinner will be ready in about 45 minutes. I just lie down, enjoy the warmth, and rest.

Dinner was an incredible affair. The food was delicious and there was plenty to go around. The chef continues to prove his wonderful skill. I eat quite a lot figuring I need to rebuild my strength and need to energize myself for what is to come. Everyone comments on how wonderful the meal is.

Someone else had talked to Marco about some gastro-intestinal problems they are having. When I hear that, I tell Marco what I have been experiencing. Marco comes back and says he has special tea for those of us experiencing problems. He refuses to tell us what kind of tea it is. This is all I have to drink. It is like a wonder drug. Very quickly I can tell my stomach starts to settle and I no longer experience those painful cramps. It is like a miracle!

Fairly soon after dinner I need to use the toilet again. It is just a repeat of my earlier experience. As I emerge I notice that Llama Path has erected its own little temporary toilet in a little tent. Some time goes by and I need to use the toilet again. Off I go and use the newly constructed toilet. Oh My God! They have erected a little seat with handlebars. I can actually sit down! This is like manna from heaven for me. While the cramping is all over, my system is still like it is a blender stuck on “liquefy”. Not pretty.

I go back to my tent and Craig is already all bundled into his sleeping bag. It is so cold I sleep with all of my clothes on and don’t change at all.

In the middle of the night, my internal system forces me awake and I get out my flashlight and make my way to the little tented toilet. I can’t believe that I am in here again. 45 minutes go by and I can’t believe that I am not finished. Thank goodness everyone else is asleep. I have no idea what time it is, nor do I care. When will this madness end?

NEXT: Climbing around MountSalkantay challenges me beyond belief. My illness causes me to take some extreme measures.

[DouglasE]

Colexis Mom - You were right. Cusco was fun. I just wish I had more time to enjoy Cusco. There is so much to see and do. Craig is just fine now.

Queen of Everything - Funny, I was filled with nothing but optimism when I was loaded onto the truck, but looking back on it now I definitely see your point.

Mickey Mama - Thank you for the compliment. Peru is just amazing.

Grammy Grampy - I'm just happy that our panicked moment at the Ninos Hotel only lasted all of a minute.

pamcarey - The Trek WAS cool!

Princess Sharon - It was amazing scenery from beginning to end.

ccmom - Hopefully, a couple of days wasn't too long for you to wait.

Chezp - Serious? I'll let you be the judge if what comes next is serious.

[wheatenwalker]

oh boy, that does NOT sound like fun!

[chezp]

Oh my goodness! Wow, what a rough time you guys had - I really feel for you both.

[pamcarey]

Omigosh, sounds like a rough day and night... and sounds like it isn't over yet...

[Colexis Mom]

Sorry about Craig fainting, and your stomach problems!

[PrincessSharon]

My goodness, Douglas! So sorry you had such tummy troubles. Hopefully they will pass quickly. Glad to hear Craig was ok. I've seen people faint before and I know how scary that can be! Glad you were able to enjoy the food! And the magic tea!

[Jillybean]

Hopefully that was the last of health problems for you and Craig! I absolutely abhor being sick away from home, so I can't imagine being sick in a different country!

Since it is freezing in SC today, I am just imagining how warm and comfy that tent was!

Jill

[DouglasE]

Soraypamapa - our first camp of the Trek. Our tent was at the end of the line, just to the right of where the trio is talking.



Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Despite my two visits to the little tented toilet over the course of the night, I had a really good night’s rest. The sleeping bags and blanket were quite comfortable and warm. While I totally would have appreciated an inflatable mattress, the one that was issued to us was serviceable. When you have been hiking all day you definitely get less fussy about your sleeping arrangements. Llama Path publicizes that it uses four men tents that only two people share. Personally, I think it would have been a really tight fit for four people to use this tent. Three I could see, but four? There was a good amount of room for Craig, me, and all of our stuff. The tent did an excellent job at blocking out the cold. I give Llama Path an A- for accommodations.

Marco had informed us at dinner what our wake-up time would be. It was early. I’m thinking 5:30 am early. Even though I wouldn’t be showering and shaving this morning I still set my travel alarm clock earlier than that. In fact, every day I set the alarm earlier than Marco recommended. I am glad I did. It took quite a bit of time to change clothes, re-pack, re-organize. This way I had plenty of time and didn’t have to rush.

In the morning the Llama Path crew put out a bowl of water and soap outside our tent. A towel was clipped to the tent. It was cold, quite cold, this morning in the mountains. Even though it was cold, I gave myself a little bath with the bowl of water and soap.

See that little tent in the foreground to the right? That's where I spent a significant portion of the night



As I consider my gastro-intestinal situation for a moment I realize I have to make a tough decision. I can only have liquids today. No solid foods. The previous night my trips to the toilet took way too long. There is no way I could keep up with the rest of the group if I had to stop and have a potty break that would last 45 minutes multiple times a day.

Breakfast never looked so good considering I had to deny myself all solids. Visiting us at breakfast was a stray cat. This is a site that is constantly used by trekkers, so I think she just waits for the next group to arrive. Members of my group would feed her off of things on their plate and pet her. I was given another round of special tea this morning. The special tea was different than last night. I’m not sure what it is supposed to do. However, any relief that I can get I will take. By now, all of the wrenching and twisting of my stomach has ended. Before we all started on the hike, Llama Path provided us all with water that had been boiled for several minutes for our water bottles. This was a daily ritual and is repeated at lunch time.





Today we climb around Mount Salkantay (Saul-Khan-tie) taking the highest pass on the Trek. We will be 4650m/15200ft above sea level located halfway between 2 huge mountains; Salkantay on the right and Tucarhuay on the left. From the pass, the views of the 2 snow-capped mountains are incredible.

This morning Marco gives us a little lesson that proved to be essential. He showed us how to chew coca leaves. Basically, we chewed the coca leaf like baseball players chew tobacco. We pulled out our rock that we had purchased and cut out a tiny bit. Then, we wrapped several coca leaves around the rock. This ball of coca leaves we then put in between our cheek and teeth. Gradually, we chew on the leaves and swallow the coca juice and of course some tiny bits of chewed up coca leaves. Pretty soon one side of your mouth goes numb. The coca leaves gave us the energy to do the climb. Did it work? I don’t know. I would have to do the same hike without the leaves and compare. All I can say is that I chewed a lot of coca leaves today. Mate de coca at breakfast and coca leaves during the day probably gave me a much needed boost.

Our group begins its ascent through the mountain passes




This hike was incredibly hard! I do not recommend everyone do this. You need to be really fit in order to do this Trek. Thank goodness I was in really good shape. Our pass twisted and turned and snaked around the mountains. Up and up and up we went. Today I definitely needed my walking stick. I used it several times to pull myself up the rocks and the path. After a while I couldn’t believe how frequently I needed to stop and breathe deeply. Whenever I stopped I was really out of breath. I don’t recall needing to breathe so deeply before. The pictures do not do it justice because during the parts of the high with the greatest inclines I was concentrating on hiking as opposed to picture taking. Craig and I were at the beginning of the pack and did quite well. Even though it was difficult I really loved challenging myself in this way. I liked pushing myself to see how much I could do. It was exhilarating. On top of all of this, the scenery was incredible. It just was amazing climbing through these snowcapped mountains. Half the time I was cursing whoever idea this was and the other half I was experiencing joy at the thrill of the challenge. Today, Eddison, our assistant guide, was leading the way. He is such a sweet guy. Always has a smile and ready to help. I got to know him fairly well because we would wait for the rest of the group occasionally at points along the way so everyone could rest.





Marco would provide insight into Inca culture and what it was like in these mountains centuries ago at our rest stops. He did a great job delivering our history lessons with great humor.

I probably am smiling because this is at the beginning of the morning and I really didn't know what I was in for, hahahaha. That's my hat, scarf and sweater that I purchased in Puno.




Peru has two seasons: the dry season and the rainy season. October begins the rainy season. As we approach our camp for lunch it begins to rain. It is just a small shower. I have my water resistant coat that I love. Once the lunch tent is ready, I go inside to keep dry. As we have our lunch the rain comes down harder. I had totally forgotten up until this point that we were visiting during the rainy season. It wasn’t a torrential downpour so I was fine with the rain. I just figured that I had been lucky in Peru up to this point.


Or maybe the coca leaves have kicked in and that's why I'm smiling



Hiking is some serious work. I was sweating. I had to take off my sweater, coat, and woolen hat.




This is how it was - the trail would twist and turn, snaking around the mountains. I told you the whole Trek was one big swiggly line.



Craig and I rest on a ledge of the mountain with a nice friendly horse




Thankfully lunch included soup. I was able to eat that. Most of the rest of the incredible meal I had to forgo. I was the only one whose illness was so severe that I needed to take this step. Everyone else was able to eat. I had lots of beverages though! Mate de coca is my friend. By the time lunch is over the sky is clear.

Following lunch Marco gathered the Llama Path crew together and he introduced each one of them. Then we introduced ourselves to the crew. It was a nice thing to do; but I think it should have been done at another time. Time is a critical factor on this day. After our introductions, we took a group photo with all of the Trekkers and the Red Army of the Llama Path.

The entire Llama Path crew (sans Marco and Edisson busy taking the pictures) in front of Mount Salkantay




This is our longest day hiking. We hike for 9.5 hours and for over 18 kilometers. It was the most difficult day by far. Climbing around Salkantay just wore us all out!

NEXT: We start our descent into lush greenery AND how we lost the battle against time.

[ccmom]

Great update! I'm glad you're starting to feel a little better. Your hat and scarf look good on you. And the scenery is breathtaking.

[chezp]

That scenery is beautiful, but my goodness, that was one tough day hiking.