In the Footsteps of the Incas: From Mountains to Jungle to Ancient Ruins About This Page:

[DouglasE]

LlaffinPlace,

Thanks for the compliment, but circumstances provided the drama, not me. It makes for good story telling; but personally I could do without the stress. Not to worry, the drama continues throughout this trip so it should prove to be an entertaining trip report.

[DouglasE]

Another look out at Lake Titicaca and Puno from our collectivo




We are riding in this collectivo and we take a circuitous route through the town of Puno. People are getting dropped off here and there at various hotels. Craig and I both are a little stressed as to whether or not we will be getting to our hotel. Eventually I see the bus reaches the dock for Lake Titicaca. I always do a bunch of research before arriving at a destination. I knew that the dock was far, far, far from where we needed to be. Eventually, the bus driver asks us again where we need to go. We show him what I had written down. I think what helped is that there was a church across from the street where our bed and breakfast is located. I had written down not only the name of our destination and its address, but also a note in Spanish that it was across from this particular church. I truly believe that’s what helped us out. The bed and breakfast is located on a tiny little alley way and I would not expect anyone to know where it is even if they had the address. We end up being the last people on the collectivo. Once our driver knows where we are going, he tried to engage us in conversation. He was very friendly and helpful. He dropped us off right at the little alley in which our accommodations could be found. In fact, we could see the place as soon as we got out.



Our collectivo drops us off and we can see our colorful bed and breakfast!





Inka’s Rest Bed and Breakfast is an interesting kind of a hybrid. It basically is a hostel for the backpacker set. Some rooms share a bathroom facility, others have an ensuite bathroom. We had booked a room for two people with an ensuite bathroom. For us, booking hotel rooms in Peru was a tricky situation. While homosexuality has been decriminalized in Peru, it maintains a strong machismo culture (at least that’s what I read). My understanding is that things were very much a “don’t ask, don’t tell” situation. It was very possible that if we had requested a room with only one bed for the two of us we would have been turned away. Consequently, we didn’t feel like rocking the boat in another country with another culture. I had done all of my booking through the internet as opposed to over the phone. I liked doing it this way because I had a written record of our transactions. I accidentally found Inka’s Rest. I was investigating some other hotel that was listed in my Lonely Planet guidebook on TripAdvisor.com and found that Inka’s Rest was very highly rated by travelers.

Let's knock on that door!



We were greeted at reception by one of the proprietors, Gilda. Wow! Moment – Gilda was incredibly warm, friendly, and generous. She made it her mission that our stay in Puno would be as wonderful as possible. Gilda pulled out a street map of Puno and marked where Inka’s Rest was and then started to ask about our plans for meals. She recommended a place to grab an inexpensive breakfast with authentic local food. She also suggested a place to have dinner with local specialties and live entertainment. She asked about our plans and then made arrangements for us to go on a tour of Islas de Los Uros in the late afternoon. She then marked out areas we might want to explore in town including a market for alpaca goods. Gilda just seemed so happy to have us stay with her. Dealing with people that have that much excitement and joy is a real treat and whatever shortcomings Inka’s Rest may have she more than made up for them. It’s also at this time that we pay for our room. It’s customary in Peru to pay at the time of check-in as opposed to check-out. Our cozy little room cost $25. It is not uncommon for rooms to be quoted in US dollars. The nuevo sole is based on the American dollar. If an establishment quotes a rate in USD, then you can pay in that currency.


Inka’s Rest is a simple place with bright colors of lime and orange. She showed us to our room up on the third floor. This is a small independent place. There are no elevators. Our room was simple and clean. The blankets in our room were so incredibly cozy and warm. This was important because since we are so high up in the mountains the evenings can become quite chilly. The only thing that really needed attention was the carpeting. A patch in our room was coming undone. Our room was just off a common area of the bed and breakfast. Just outside our door was a table with treats like sour balls and such with chairs. A computer terminal was available for use along with comfy sofas and chairs. A side table was set up for coffee and tea.


A commons area right outside our room









Our room at Inka's Rest Bed and Breakfast













We followed Gilda’s advice and ventured out to go to Tobbey’s Burguer for a meal. Personally, I was starved! Tobbey’s wasn’t all that hard to find with Gilda’s map. It is a cute, tiny establishment. There weren’t more than 8 tables. The prices were nice and low – just our speed. We each ordered an alpaca cheeseburger. Mine had lettuce, tomato, cheese and an egg. I never had an egg on a cheeseburger before! We also had mate de coca or coca tea. Coca tea is infused with coca leaves. Coca leaves are the same plant from which cocaine is made. It isn’t any surprise that coca tea is supposed to have great medicinal value and provide an added boost. Craig is feeling unwell. He decided he doesn’t want to eat his burger and isn’t able to finish his tea. I finish his tea for him and wrap up his burger for later. My burger was tasty.

Tobbey's Burguer

[DouglasE]

Streets of Puno as we make our way to Tobbey's Burguer






We return back to the bed and breakfast. Craig decides he is too sick and really needs to sleep. When we returned to the room I noticed that we needed towels for our bathroom. Gilda’s English is quite good. My Spanish is very minimal. We played a game of charades to communicate that I needed towels. We had a good laugh over that. While Craig took his nap I decided I am going to go and explore the town of Puno, take lots of pictures, and do a little shopping for some alpaca goods.

NEXT: Meeting a friendly local who shows me the highest point of Puno and stumbling upon a religious celebration.

[chezp]

Great updates Douglas - and what a perfect that bed and breakfast looks to be... how great to be greeted like that!

[DouglasE]

Puno's Cathedral - note the celebration taking place in front



In stepping out the door of Inka’s Rest an observation get reconfirmed. Traffic is cah-razy! There are all sorts of vehicles swarming around like insects. Besides the anticipated automobiles, are taxis, minivans, combis (minibuses), collectivos, and mototaxis. My favorite vehicle is the peditaxi. Peditaxis are carriages powered by a man who pedals it like a bicycle. They are ubiquitous in Puno. I had a fun time navigating my way through the streets of Puno while not getting run over by a vehicle. I actually became so shocked by the appearance of a traffic light that I had to take a picture of it. At least the vehicles were adhering to its authority even if I didn’t seem to be.

Pedicab and other vehicles on the streets of Puno



The streets of Puno



This is a good time to discuss Puno in general. Tucked away in the southeast corner of Peru is Lago Titicaca. This lake is so large that on one side is Peru on the other border is Bolivia. It is here at Lago Titicaca that one of the cradles of civilization existed. A traditional theory of the spread of civilization is that it began in the Fertile Crescent of Mesopotamia and spread out from there by influence. This consistent "Cradle of Civilization" concept is contradicted by the occurrence of shared essential features of civilization met independently in various areas of the planet, and by the observation of a both gradual and irregular succession of different sociocultural developments. You might be familiar with the Egyptians on the Nile, the Mesopotamians on the Tigris and the Euphrates, and the civilizations of the Indus and Yellow Rivers. Lago Titicaca is another area that has proven to be a place where civilization first developed.

Puno is a stronghold of rural Peruvian life sitting on the edge of Lago Titicaca. The lake itself is the world’s highest navigable lake. While you may have heard of the Incas, they were only the last of a long line of ethnic groups that lived here in Peru. However, it is at Lago Titicaca that the first Inca, Manco Capac, son of the sun god Inti, emerged to form the Inca civilization. Manco Capac’s sister-consort Mama Ocllo also sprang from this lake just like Venus.

Puno is very compact and easily manageable on foot. According to Gilda, everything worth seeing in Puno is a short distance away from our bed and breakfast. We started our journey in Puno because we knew of the probability of soroche. Since Puno is 3,830 m (12,630 ft.) above sea level it is even higher than Cusco and Machu Picchu. This gives us a chance to get acclimated to the elevation. We will be going on a five day Adventure Trek (hike) through the Andes to arrive in Machu Picchu. Puno is definitely a world away from Philadelphia. I love the feeling when I travel that I am someplace alien. While when I got off the train in Amboise in 2006 like I had been transported back in time, I truly feel like I’m rooted in the present in Puno.

In Peru, major towns and cities have a central square. This is not surprising considering the thorough domination of the Spanish conquistadors. Generally, this square is called Plaza de Armas and Puno is no exception. This is my first destination in Puno. Sitting on the square is one of the remnants of its Spanish colonial past – the Cathedral. It dates back to 1757. As I approach, I notice some kind of religious festival taking place in front of the Cathedral. A canon shoots confetti, a folkloric band plays festive music, participants throw confetti on one another. What a wonderful surprise! A bier carrying a female idol/icon is paraded into the mix. Could this be a Peruvian version of the Virgin Mary? I watch the festivities for a few minutes and then wonder and wander away. I noticed the Biblioteca (library) and the Pinacoteca (art gallery).



Plaza de Armas






The celebration at the Cathedral







I look at the map that Gilda gave me and decide to visit the Arco Deustua. This monument honors those killed in the independence battles. While checking out the arch, a local man approaches me and tells me that if I go off to my right I will find an area which will give me great views of the area. At least that’s the gist of what I could gather. Oh my God! What a find! This spot was incredible. I got a bird’s eye view of everything for 360 degrees! I took a bunch of pictures and stood in awe. When I returned my new local friend was still there and we chatted a tiny bit. He also did me the kind favor of taking my picture. Adios amigo!


The Arco Deustua






Lago Titicaca and Puno
















As I meander my way downhill, I discover another religious fiesta at another smaller church. This time I realize it is a wedding. The bride is being serenaded by a mariachi like band. Upon reflection I realize that the earlier celebration was another wedding too.



A wedding celebration








Parque Pino is a market square selling all sorts of alpaca goods. I needed a few things for my Adventure Trek. I purposely did not pack a few things because I wanted to buy a hat, scarf, and sweater in Puno as practical souvenirs that I could also use on my trek. There were so many choices! So many stalls. Eventually, I stop and find some items that I liked. I do a bit of bargaining with the woman at the stall. My tactic is that I only have a “x” Nuevo sole bill. That’s all I have on me. Truth be told - all of my money is stored away in my money belt around my waist, but she doesn’t need to know that. When all is said and done I get the sweater and scarf for 40 nuevo soles ($13.35). It turns out while I love my purchases; my scarf is not completely alpaca wool. It is an acrylic and wool mix. I still like it. It keeps me warm. I tried to get a hat also for a total of 50 nuevo soles for all three items, but she wasn’t having it. I walked away with a smile and a wave.

Parque Pino



More photos of Puno







At this point, I’m really starting to feel the effects of the soroche and would just like to rest for a bit. I’m feeling a tiny bit winded and the dull throbbing headache is just annoying. I decide to join Craig and have a bit of a nap.

NEXT: Our Lake Titicaca Tour and Peru time.

[wheatenwalker]

I cant wait to read more - and the pictures are lovely!

[Colexis Mom]

Great updates Douglas! Sorry Craig isn't feeling well! Love the pictures of Puno!

[LLaffinPlace]

Between the wonderful pics and your great descriptions, Puno just comes alive for me.

I particularly appreciate the background on Lago Titicaca and its surroundings. While I am certainly aware of it, my knowledge is woefully lacking--probably not that unusual for a Norte American, even one who has been reading National Geographic since I was capable of doing so.

As always, I am looking forward to the next installment.

[pamcarey]

Wonderful pictures! I hope the effects of soroche don't bother you and Craig for too long. Hope to see a picture of your alpaca sweater later in the TR!

[chezp]

You really have brought Puno to life for me through your wonderful photos and great descriptions. I hear you so much about places being alien - I felt exactly the same way with Japan.

[ccmom]

Yes, we need pics of your new finery. What lovely pictures. I hope your headache went away and you were able to enjoy your cruise.

[lauriep]

The B&B looks just perfect, and Puno a wonderful introduction to the country. You did really well on your shopping expedition. I hope you both got adjusted to the altitude quickly.

[DrDolphin]

So glad to hear you got new boots and made it to your B&B!! Your photos are wonderful. Hope you both get some rest and adapt to the altitude soon.

[Queen of Everything]

I'm really enjoying your trip report. Great pictures.

Amy

[DouglasE]

Wheatenwalker: Thank you! What a sweet dog in your signature!

Colexi's Mom: Thanks for the compliment. I think Craig is feeling better now

LlaffinPlace: Please, until i knew I was taking this trip I had never even heard of Puno. You are more than excused for your lack of knowledge.

Pamcarey: Eventually you will see a picture with me wearing my alpaca sweater and scarf.

Chezp: I'm glad that you feel you are getting a sense of things. Wait until we get to Lima! I have definite opinions about that place!

ccmom: Duly noted - further along in the trip report you should see a picture of me in all my new finery

Lauriep: Well, as you will discover in my next installment the B&B was not perfect. However, it still was a great place to stay.

DrDolphin: Thanks for the compliment and Craig definitely was out like a light for that nap.

Queen of Everything: Thank you for the compliment. Craig lives in Urbana too. He's always in some local theatrical production. In June I saw him at the Station Theater in "The Full Monty". The Barbeque and Blues street festival in Urbana was fun. I got to enjoy it while Craig was rehearsing. A few weeks ago he was in Danville Light Opera's "Civil War". So if you see him at Borders or something tell him you loved the pictures of his trip to Peru and that'll really freak him out